Mr. Koprek conducted this interview on behalf of SEMSEO GmbH for usedom.de on March 7, 2019.
Face of the Island: Star Chef Tom Wickboldt
Magazine
25.03.2019, Usedom Tourismus GmbH
For years, Tom Wickboldt has ensured that foodies on the island of Usedom can enjoy Michelin-starred dishes. Over the years, the 42-year-old has maintained his Michelin star at various restaurants.
How a Michelin-starred chef ends up on Usedom
Mr. Wickboldt, as a native of Rostock, what brought you to the Baltic Sea island of Usedom?
I worked for a very long time at various Michelin-starred restaurants in Germany, most recently in southern Germany. However, I always felt a bit of homesickness. Through a consulting gig for a restaurant on the island, I eventually ended up on Usedom. I had actually only planned to stay for three months. But at some point, I realized I’d already been here for a year. So I said, “Okay, but I want to do what I really want to do here—open a gourmet restaurant.” No sooner said than done. And after two years, our gourmet restaurant Tom Wickboldt, earned a Michelin star. I’ve now been on the island for nine years.
Shortly after opening your restaurant “The O’Room” at the Marc O’Polo Strandcasino in Heringsdorf, you received a Michelin star. Before that, you had already been delighting diners with Michelin-starred cuisine at the Romantik Hotel Esplanade. How would you describe your culinary style?
I was trained in classical French cuisine, which is naturally reflected in my dishes. But of course, my signature style has also evolved over the past few years. I’d describe it as modern, cosmopolitan cuisine that’s definitely influenced by stocks and sauces. Every dish is very expressive. I also try to combine ingredients that not everyone would think to pair right away, which allows me to create a bit of a surprise.
Who is your cuisine aimed at?
To anyone who enjoys good food and wants to have a wonderful evening—one they'll still look back on with affection a week from now.
What role do regional producers play in your day-to-day cooking? Do you source many ingredients from the island?
Yes, I try to incorporate everything reasonable that I can get locally into my cooking. For example, I work closely with a local hunter and the Müritz fishermen. But we also have Mecklenburg dry-aged beef and a Mecklenburg straw-fed pork on the menu. That said, I’m not so dogmatic that I’m strictly regional and only use what grows right on my doorstep.
How often does a Michelin-starred restaurant need to introduce new dishes to its sometimes-discerning clientele, and where do you draw inspiration for new creations?
Unlike in many three-star restaurants, for example, we frequently create entirely new menus. Especially for the seasons—spring, summer, fall, and winter—we introduce something new, featuring the corresponding seasonal dishes. I draw my inspiration from restaurants around the globe. I was just in Cape Town, France, Italy, and Spain, and in March I’m flying back to Valencia specifically just to visit two restaurants. The cuisine there is very exciting and modern, and I can draw a lot of inspiration from it.
Even the boss himself spends a lot of time in the kitchen
As a Michelin-starred chef, what percentage of your work time do you spend at the stove? After all, you also have overall responsibility for all the other culinary facilities and offerings at the Strandcasino in Heringsdorf. Do you spend more time at your desk these days than you do cooking?
No, actually, I’m almost always at the stove, involved in the cooking process, and in the evenings I’m also cooking at my station during à la carte service. Of course, I also have to handle office and marketing duties on the side, but I still spend 70 percent of my working hours actively cooking.
How much effort does it take to earn a star, maintain it, and perhaps even increase the number of stars? Do you fear the restaurant inspectors? Do you keep an eye out for them in the restaurant?
For me, every guest is an inspector. I also don’t cook primarily to earn a Michelin star. You have to think of it like competitive sports. If I’m a 100-meter sprinter and want to run the fastest time, then I’ll automatically win a medal. That’s how it is for us, too. We want to create a dish that’s 100 percent perfect, and the Michelin star simply confirms that we’re doing a good job. We do that every day, and that’s our standard.
But stars aren't everything
Many of your colleagues are currently giving back their stars and turning their backs on the award. Most recently, Johann Lafer caused a stir by closing his Michelin-starred restaurant. How do you explain this, and what are your goals?
When you’re a chef who’s in the media a lot—and therefore on the road a lot—you can’t keep as close a hand on things as you can when you’re on site. I think that’s a pretty big amount of pressure to live with. After all, you have relatively little control over how things run at the restaurant. That’s why I spend so much time at the stove myself—to check on the details. If you can no longer manage that yourself, I can certainly understand wanting to free yourself from that pressure.
For me, a second star isn’t even up for discussion. I try to keep cooking at a high level in the Michelin-starred segment, but I don’t worry about whether that’s enough for another star or not. If it’s meant to be, I’ll be happy; if not, that’s okay too.
What does a Michelin-starred chef actually like to eat most? Lobster and caviar? Or maybe currywurst?
Currywurst (laughs)! I absolutely love going out to eat, but like anyone else, I enjoy a hearty stew, a schnitzel, or something similar every now and then.
Do you cook at home, or are you—pardon the expression—"fed up" with it by the time you get home?
Well, not exactly “fed up” with it. But when we get home, it's around 11 or 12 p.m., so you don't really feel like cooking anymore. At best, you might just heat up some pea stew. But cooking doesn't really stress me out—I still enjoy doing it. It's my calling.
What’s your favorite spot on Usedom?
It’s my balcony here in Heringsdorf with a view of the Baltic Sea.
Thank you very much for the interview!
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