Hiking on the Gnitz Peninsula
Journalist Christiane Flechtner visited Usedom and fell in love with the Gnitz Peninsula.
With the melody of birdsong ringing in my ears
It’s early afternoon, and the only sounds to be heard are those of the birds: the oystercatchers are making quite a racket, while the lapwing’s drawn-out calls sound like a gentle melody. The gentle rustling of the leaves in the wind accompanies me on my hike across the Gnitz Peninsula.
A natural paradise I won't forget anytime soon
The Gnitz Peninsula is located in the northwest of the island of Usedom, between the Achterwasser, the Peenestrom, and the Krummer Wiek. It is a truly special gem. Its southern tip was designated a nature reserve in 1991 and has remained virtually untouched ever since. It’s 61.3 hectares of pure nature. Rare plants such as the early purple orchid, saltgrass, and columnar juniper grow here—and for this reason alone, it’s worth taking a very special hike along the headland in the Achterwasser.
Picking blackberries along the trail
The starting point of the roughly ten-kilometer hike is in Neuendorf. From here, the trail first follows a dirt road and then leads through a wooded area. A narrow path—much like a maze—guides me through tall blackberry bushes. Where it leads isn’t important right now. I’m fully in the here and now, and as I walk by, I keep picking a few of these dark, juicy fruits.
The sweeping view across the Achterwasser
But then I come to a halt, because suddenly the greenery opens up, revealing a steep coastline with a breathtaking view: far below, the glistening light blue of the Achterwasser, and above it, the deep blue sky dotted with fluffy clouds. On the water, a few kayakers are paddling along the coast, and further out, a sailboat is visible. The air smells of fall, pine trees, sunshine, and nature. The cliffs on the Weisser Berg offer ever-changing, breathtaking views.
A wonderful stillness hangs over this little corner of the world
I continue my hike over gnarled roots and through powdery sand toward the nature reserve. Soon the path drops steeply down to the flatter part of the peninsula, known as Möwenort. Sheep graze here, and the broad-leaved orchid blooms in shades of pink and purple in the pastures. I walk through meadows dotted with cotton grass and saxifrage. I take a break to enjoy the silence. Is this really Germany? It feels so far removed from everyday life that this place might as well be hundreds of kilometers away. I continue on toward the villages of Lütow and Netzelkow before heading back to my starting point in the little village of Neuendorf.
Coffee and homemade cake revive my spirits
Back from the hike, I stop by Café Seelchen. There, I reflect on the hike over a slice of homemade cake. I’m thrilled by this landscape, which is so impressive and varied that I definitely want to come back here again.
About the Author: Christiane Flechtner
As a journalist and photographer, Christiane Flechtner is a versatile professional: whether she’s out and about as a travel or wildlife photographer or writing feature stories at home. Whether she’s wearing a chic suit for wedding photography or hiking boots and practical clothing out in nature. Christiane Flechtner is fascinated by the wonders of this earth—above and below the water and in the air. At the same time, they fill her with awe and make her pause to reflect on the complexity and perfection of this world.
Share this discovery
By clicking the icons, you leave this website.