Water Sports on the Achterwasser—The Best Spots
Journalist Christiane Flechtner visited Usedom and tried out kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and other water activities at some of the Achterwasser’s most beautiful spots.
A Perfect Time at the Achterwasser
It’s just a soft rustling that grows louder at times and then subsides again. The reeds create this unique melody as they sway back and forth in the gentle breeze, sometimes more, sometimes less. Like green waves, the stalks lean toward the water, as if bowing to the power of nature, only to straighten up again when the wind dies down. Along the Achterwasser—the name given to the 15-kilometer-wide and 10-kilometer-long lagoon formed by the Peene River as it flows into the Baltic Sea—there are many such green belts of reeds.
Incidentally, the name “Achterwasser” comes from Low German. “Achtern” means “rear, behind”—that is, the water behind the island of Usedom. The Achterwasser extends so far into the island of Usedom that the land bridge between the Achterwasser and the Baltic Sea is only about 300 meters wide at its narrowest point. And the Achterwasser is also the perfect place for water sports—whether kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, or surfing.
In the morning, nature belongs to us all to ourselves
We set off the next morning: Right in front of the Damerow Forest House in Koserow, my friend Prisca and I rent two kayaks from the “Grenzenlos Aktiv Team”—and just ten minutes later, we’re paddling out from the property’s own dock into the cool waters of the Achterwasser. A gray heron sits on the bank, completely unfazed by our presence. So we paddle northwest along the reed belt, enjoying nature. We have it all to ourselves this morning—not a single other water sports enthusiast is in sight.
Reed Belt Habitat
The kayaking trip definitely leaves you wanting more, and the very next day we head to Krummin to explore the Krumminer Wiek from its natural harbor. The Peenestrom Bay is part of the coastal waters of the West Usedom Bodden chain and covers an area of approximately 13 square kilometers. “It’s a fantastic place to paddle,” says Thomas Heller of Outdoor Usedom, who has been offering kayaking tours at this special location for five years now. The water here is only between 2.5 and 3.3 meters deep, and the coastal areas are largely overgrown with reeds. It’s the perfect place for wildlife, as the reed beds provide an ideal habitat. Not only do they provide shelter, food, and undisturbed breeding grounds, but they also make an important contribution to nature conservation and the preservation of biodiversity. In the spring, you can even watch the grass grow, as young reeds can grow up to five centimeters under favorable conditions—per day!
Nature Observation in the Krumminer Wiek
“You can spot many birds, especially early in the morning along the reed belt,” he says. “I offer these tours so that I can set out with tourists to observe nature and help them better understand the uniqueness and fragility of the region. You can spot wild geese, gray herons, and cranes there—and, if you’re lucky, even a white-tailed eagle. And that helps them understand just how harmful it is to paddle kayaks right into the reeds,” he adds. Heller is originally from Cologne, but Usedom is now his home. And so he takes groups of up to seven people on his kayak tours into this unique natural setting.
Paddling toward the setting sun
The kayak guide prepares the two kayaks we’ll use to paddle toward the sunset in the early evening. And then we’re off. We head out onto the water and leisurely paddle past the boats in the small marina and further out. The water is now glowing a deep blue, and the wind is creating small waves. And then it all happens very quickly: the sun sets, bathing the area in a play of red and orange hues. The sunset is breathtaking!
To stand on water as smooth as a mirror
The next day, we’re heading out on our SUPs. The three of us set off from Ückeritz, a small town in the heart of Usedom. At the Surfbude next to Café Knatter, you can go sailing, surfing, and even explore the shallow Achterwasser on a stand-up paddleboard. The weather is perfect this morning—the water is as smooth as a mirror. The paddle dips into the water, creating small, round waves. We paddle along the shore for an hour, watching a family of ducks and listening to the characteristic chirping song of a reed warbler, before returning to our starting point after an hour and a half.
Bottom line: Whether it’s kayaking or SUP—water sports on Usedom are sure to leave you wanting more.... If you haven’t tried it yet, you should definitely give it a go.
About the Author: Christiane Flechtner
As a journalist and photographer, Christiane Flechtner is a versatile professional: whether she’s out and about as a travel or wildlife photographer or writing feature stories at home. Whether she’s wearing a chic suit for wedding photography or hiking boots and practical clothing out in nature. Christiane Flechtner is fascinated by the wonders of this earth—above and below the water and in the air. At the same time, they fill her with awe and make her pause to reflect on the complexity and perfection of this world.
Share this discovery
By clicking the icons, you leave this website.